Issue #4: Inside the Catalonian Masia We Might Just Call Home
Could this be the one?
Magic Habitat is a Substack documenting our gloriously overthought and occasionally unhinged journey to find a house to buy in Spain. A compendium of all the bizarre places we have viewed across the country in our pursuit of Something Different™️. Written by me, a Creative Strategist who naively thought that it wouldn’t be this complicated.
September 2024
Girona
It’s September 2024, and we still call Mallorca home, but curiosity got the better of us. So, onto the ferry we go to see if Girona’s hype is real - apparently the beaches are great, the city’s got a more youthful energy, and real estate that might not cost a kidney. Throw in the possibility of skiing a couple hours away, and we wanted to see what all the fuss was about.
Catalonia stretches across Spain’s northeastern corner, brushing up against the French border and rolls down to the Mediterranean Sea. Despite the region’s ancient villages and tucked-away coves, it’s surprisingly well-connected: you’ve got Barcelona-El Prat, Girona-Costa Brava, Reus, and even Lleida-Alguaire airports, which means multiple ways in—and out—whenever the travel bug bites (the real estate agent nearly convinced me to move there immediately when she casually mentioned that she frequently jumps on the AVE (fast train) to Perpignan for oysters and wine - I’m an easy sell)
Property-wise, Catalonia spans centuries-old stone masías tucked among olive groves to sleek, modern builds along the coast. It also claims one of the world’s most iconic surrealists—Salvador Dalí, born in Figueres and inspired by the coastal village of Port Lligat. His legacy still hums through this creative hub, from La Bisbal (Spain’s antiques epicenter - yes please) to a culinary scene that might be the most inventive and delicious in the country (more on that later).
We narrowed our first house-hunting mission to two spots, aiming for that sweet spot between Costa Brava beaches and the Baix Empordà countryside: Sant Feliu de Guíxols and Palamós.
Sant Feliu de Guíxols
Population: ~22,000
Beach Proximity: Right on the coast
Distance to Girona: ~30 minutes by car
Though it’s perched on a lovely stretch of the Costa Brava, Sant Feliu de Guíxols still feels like a proper working town—part of its charm is having a solid amenities, a great food market, alongside a beautiful beach. Property options run the gamut: you’ll find central townhouses (some just steps from the sand) and pricier villas in the hills. We toured 4 bedroom townhouse for sale two minutes from the water, a tempting blend of local life and beachy convenience. In the end, we ruled it out because, shocker, you can’t have acres of rolling countryside and a bustling town center right next door—who knew?
Here are some photos of said town house (which is still for sale).
Palamós
Population: ~18,000
Beach Proximity: Right on the coast
Distance to Girona: ~45 minutes by car
Palamós has a solid port-town vibe especially if you’re into fresh seafood (hello, famous prawns) and a bit more year-round energy. While it’s no postcard like Sant Feliu, it’s right next to some of the Costa Brava’s best beaches and makes a perfect jumping-off point for the wider region. We even toured a villa with actual land (shocking!), but the place looked as tired as its urbanization. Sure, it’s not as pretty as Begur or Cadaqués, but it feels infinitely more liveable.
Wildcard
On our last evening, drinking vermouth in Girona, we spotted a house just ten minutes away. Our flight was the next day, so obviously we texted the agent at midnight and, shockingly, she replied. By morning, we were touring a Belgian antiques dealer’s old masia: French countryside on the outside, Architectural Digest on the inside (it literally made their pages). I was practically having heart palpitations, and two weeks later, we returned for a second viewing. So, did we pull the trigger? Stay tuned. Meanwhile, feast your eyes on these photos.
Food Recs
We had some of the best meals of our lives in Catalonia. Highlights include:
Matsu Izakaya
Carrer Indústria, 4, 17230 Palamós, Girona
Hands-down the best Japanese food we’ve had outside Japan. Easily one of our top three restaurants in Spain and SUCH great value.Thai Palamós
Carrer Pagès Ortiz, 23, 17230 Palamós, Girona
Fresh, authentic Thai flavors—possibly the best we’ve had outside Bangkok.Monki Restaurant (Monells)
Carrer Vilanova, 17121 Monells, Girona
Delicious sushi in a sleek modern setting, nestled in one of Catalonia’s most beautiful medieval towns.Mola! Botiga de Pastas
Carrer Bonaventura Carreras I Peralta, 13, 17004 Girona
Cheap, tasty homemade pasta—more bar than restaurant, but well worth a stop.
Next week, we’re back in Catalonia for that elusive second viewing. Will the heart palpitations return? Will we sign on the dotted line—or will something else pop up before the ink is even dry?